CONGRATULATIONS to Gunzetal Thread Company!
The Gunzetal mill just finished their first audit after signing up for the CAP program around Christmas and preparing for the Under Armour CAP in a remarkable speed of less than 2 weeks. As the February CAP mill profile of the month, we were curious to know more about the mill, located in Guangzhou, China.
We took the opportunity to talk with Beat Hofer, the lead auditor and Head of Technical Operations at natific.
What is the mill's niche area?
Beat: Polyester sewing thread
What retailers/brands is the mill working with within the program?
Beat: Under Armour
What CAP program did you carry out at the Gunzetal mill?
Beat: Among a total of 100 CAP accredited mills, Guangzhou Gunzetal is the first CAP accredited Polyester sewing thread dye-house in the world. I audited the Yarn Exhaust dye house, one of their two sites that were equipped with high temperature dyeing machines with capacities from 1 kg up to 500 kg.
What CAP Performance Level could you assign after the audit?
Beat: A CAP level 4. The competent and well-prepared staff was able to achieve a good level of CAP performance immediately. Achieving level 4 demonstrates their color management competence to safely go straight to production as soon as the color is specified by the brand/retailer. It also shows that they are among the best operations globally.
Any inside story you can share about how the mill performed during the audit?
Beat: When checking the mill’s lab-matching capabilities, the requested challenging test colors (qtx files) were all successfully matched in 2 to 4 lab trials. Dye-stuff combinations were selected that will fulfill the fastness requirements to leading brands quality standards with no issues with metamerism.
Metamerism remains a big issue in the dyeing industry (especially for sewing thread yarn). By being able to avoid it, the mill will match the colors under all specified illuminants, ensuring color coordination between the thread and the fabric to be sewn.
That is really good news for all supply chain participants, anything more you would like to share...?
Beat: Color fastness is another common issue at final products. For polyester dyeing, dyestuff selection and a well-controlled reduction clear process (removing unfixed dye-stuff from the fiber) will give optimum color fastness properties. I am glad to say that all dyeing processes at Gunzetal are state-of-the art, including a controlled reduction clear processes for achieving optimum fastness properties.
Did you notice anything else on site that will affect the final product?
Beat: Yes, for example their yarn winding machines with integrated accurate yarn lubrication. Good quality and uniform lubrication of sewing threads will avoid yarn bursts, allowing a hassle-free usage on sewing machines.
What happens now for the mill?
Beat: The mill receives a comprehensive report with required and recommended actions. For example, in the past the mills process was for the 1st production to be made as the standard, with the aim to keep all production as near as possible to the first production lot. When going forward and as CAP accredited the retailer’s master digital standard will now be matched for all production lots.
WELCOME ANNOUNCEMENT TO NEW CLIENTS
We are happy to welcome below new and returning retailers, brands, vendors and mills as natific software and service clients. We are looking forward to our new and continued relationships.
Mountain Works (Sweden)
VENDORS & MILLS
LT Apparel Group Ltd. (United States)
The ColorWarehouse and ASAP system
Kunshan Lily Textile Co., Ltd. (China)
Shandong Weilian Printing Dyeing (China)
Textiles Color Real, S.A. (Guatemala)
Delicacy Industrial Co., Ltd. (Taiwan)
Global Dyeing (Viet Nam)
Little King Ind. Co., Ltd. (Taiwan)
A&H Sportswear (United States)
Brimadona Industrial Co., Ltd. (Taiwan)
Global Challenge Co., Ltd. (South Korea)
Digjam Ltd. (India)
Tien-Hu Trading Ltd. (Hong Kong)
Yixing Lucky Dyeing, Printing, and Finishing Co., Ltd. (China)